Archive for the month “November, 2011”

Tomato Catfacing

Catfacing usually happens to large tomato varieties like Beefsteak, Big Beef, Brandywine, and Cherokee Purple. Although catfacing can cause a tomato to be rather unsightly, most times it is harmless and the tomato can still be used. The larger one in my photo can not be used, as it is also developing blossom end rot.

Catfacing is caused by a drop in temperature when the tomato plant blooms, or begins to set fruit. It can be very difficult to control tomato catfacing since it is dealing with temperature. Brandywine tomatoes are one of the most difficult tomato varieties to grow, and catfacing is one of the most common problems. All I can do to prevent this is pick the catfaced fruit, and hope that I’ll get regular ones now that the weather has settled a little.

November 24 Photo Tour

rainbow swiss chard

Herbs grown from seed

Sweet corn

San Marzano Tomatoes

Carrots

Dinosaur Kale seedlings


another sweet corn cob

a late Sugarbaby watermelon

Bees pollinating zucchinis

Beetroot seedlings

 

Nastartium

Black Beauty Zucchini

 

Tomato & carrot bed

 

 

Super Rocca


Today I was out gardening when I noticed this fast-growing rocca was starting to cover and shade its neighboring plants. I quickly decided to prune away the large, shading leaves. I ended up with enough to make a rocca salad. All of the leaves above are from only 3 rocca plants.

This rocca can NOT be compared with the grocery store rocca; Its darker, larger and thicker! I’m so impressed!


Rocca grows extremely fast, if its your first time gardening, you cant go wrong with rocca!

This was growing with rock dust minerals, I feed it every two weeks alternating between Espoma organic blood meal and Espoma organic garden tone the next two weeks. (All found in TrueValue)
Very high quality results from so little effort.

Basil Harvest

Basil leaves must be continually harvested and pruned to avoid flowering, once basil plants flower or bolt, they start to lose their flavor. Pruning basil also produces larger and bushier plants. I will use this basil to make a jar of pesto for my mozzarella and halloum sandwiches.

There are hundreds of pesto recipes online, I like to use a very simple one. I like to add ground flaxseed for omega 3 and some almonds for vitamin E.

Basil Pesto Recipe:
• ½ a clove of garlic, chopped
• sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 3 good handfuls of fresh basil, leaves picked and chopped
• a handful of pine nuts, very lightly toasted
• a good handful of freshly grated Parmesan cheese
• extra virgin olive oil
optional
• a small squeeze of lemon juice

Fresh basil pesto

 

November Garden Update Photo Tour

Cosmic Purple Carrots

 

Hand Pollinating Zucchinis

Hand pollination is done by picking the male flower (which doesn’t have a growing zucchini as a stem), removing its petals, and rubbing it at the female flower repeatedly. Hand pollination is a step I’m doing just in case the bees in my garden aren’t doing they’re job.

Corn

 

 

Zucchini taking over its neighboring squares

 

Sweet Potatoes

Tomatoes & Companions

Here are tomatoes with companion plants such as basil, borage, marigolds, and carrots.

Cilantro

Rainbow Swiss Chard

5 damaging flies

As the gardening season starts a lot of us, including myself  overwater in order to cool the soil and correct heat damage. This is a big mistake because it invites certain pests to your garden that cause some problems.
Having pests in an outdoor garden is inevitable, and organic control measures can be difficult and frustrating, so know your pest well before going into any control measures so as not to waste time and energy.
Houseflies & Fungus gnats

The pests I’m having thanks to overwatering are fungus gnats and houseflies, both lay eggs in the soil, they’re not a major problem since their larvae feed on organic matter and not the plants or their roots. They are however a big nuisance when working in the garden.

flies and gnats stuck on yellow sticky paper

This control method only gets rid of the adults, the sticky tape can be found in ACE Hardware,  to get the larvae, you can place pieces of raw potato on the soil surface and check it after around 5 hours, you should find the larvae of these flies eating the potato away, discard the potato piece and keep doing it and numbers should decrease.

Fruitflies 

trying to protect squash fruit

A major problem I’ve been having is that fruit flies have been laying eggs in my butternut squash, I’ve lost six fruit already, one day the fruit is nice and healthy, and the next I find a mushy dimple, and when I crack it open, I find larvae (white worms) feeding away inside. It’s very hard to hand pollinate the flower then cover, I need to figure out a new organic way to protect my fruit, since the plant is growing too fast and over my very tall trellis.

squash plant growing too tall too fast

Im worried this might happen to my zucchini fruits once they start forming, if I cover the plants, bees won’t have access to pollinate the flowers.

Whiteflies 

photo from psykick.de

 These are the worst pests in the garden, they like a lot of plants including tomatoes and squash plants, if they’re found on the underside of leaves, you must control them immediately as they cause serious damage.
Whiteflies and they’re nymphs (the young whiteflies) suck on the sap of the leaves, causing the spread of viruses, yellowing leaves, and stunted growth, they spread very fast so one must control them quickly.
The yellow sticky tape works for adults, so does insecticidal soap, and horticultural oil.

reflective mulch

I am also following a control method which is to place reflective mulch, in my case aluminum foil under the possible host plants. The foil disorients the flies and annoys/repels them.

Leaf Miners

Leaf miner damage

 I think most gardens in Kuwait have this problem around this time, leaf miners are a certain kind of fly that lays eggs inside the leaves, later having the larvae grow and feed inside the leaf creating squiggly lines in their trail.
Its not a major problem if its a big strong plant, the correct control measure is to pick and discard the affected leaves, but I’m not about to sacrifice almost a foot-wide leaf for a few blemishes, I found a simpler way which is to squish the visible worm with the my fingers, it will die inside the leaf and will not make it as an adult, in return I will keep the leaf and it will recover quickly.

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